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When curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.